“In Spain, honor is a very real thing. Called pundonor, it means honor, probity, courage, self-respect and pride in one word. Pride is the strongest characteristic of the race and it is a matter of pundonor not to show cowardice. This honor thing is not some fantasy that I am trying to inflict on you… I swear it is true. Honor to a Spaniard, no matter how dishonest, is as real a thing as water, wine, or olive oil.
There is honor among pickpockets and honor among whores. It is simply that the standard differs.” – Hemingway, “Death in the Afternoon”
Within one week in Spain I have been robbed 2 times (maybe more, depending on your definition) and I have several friends too who’ve suffered similar fates.
It is a cultural experience to be robbed in Spain. There is very clearly an ethic here that is without understanding to us foreigners, something like pride but more encompassing. The Spaniards certainly understand that there is fault and injustice in robbery, but their ethic accepts this as a reality of life, nothing to spend time or worry on. This is not right or wrong. This just is…
This time around my thief truly deserves a round of applause. With 5 students all sitting around a table at Starbucks, discussing finance, our bags were never more than 2 inches from our sides. Without any distraction, without even one student standing up to leave, our thief was able to pull a bag away unnoticed by any of us five. Unfortunately for me my passport was within the chosen bag (as I’ve needed it everyday since arriving, for a variety of reasons).
Off to the American consulate, and within we found outstanding service. A new passport was made for me on the spot, with nothing but smiles and apologies for my rough day. I can finally feel my tax dollars hard at work. Among the Spanish police however? Well let’s just say they had lot’s to do that day… a full pack of cigarettes and several pastries were keeping them quite busy. Crime could wait.
Police Report #2
Once again my good friend (and to this point proven hero) Vittorio, from Calabria Italy, was not about to sit back and allow an injustice. He was once again charging to the police (despite our experience in Granada) with a mouthful of judgment on the wrongfulness of the situation. Beyond fighting the good fight for me (as I do not speak good Spanish yet), Vittorio also played the comic, keeping the mood light throughout several challenging events… and why not when life is so short.
So what is the moral of this story?
Well I am not sure there is a moral here (beside always padlock your belongings to yourself in Madrid). But just maybe, to observe these cultural differences, how different people react, and what qualities arise from them; if not a moral, it is at least a lesson… Always keep a good Calabrian near you. Thanks Vittorio!
Oh man, that stinks! When I was in Madrid, after not having arrived more than 20 minutes prior, I caught a man behind me on the escalator in the metro station reaching his hand in my giant backpack... in the only pocket I didn't have a lock on. Jerk snatched my list of names and addresses of people to send post cards to...
ReplyDeleteI am saddened by your misfortunes but it pleases me that you were able to have the situation corrected in such a short amount of time. I would have assumed it'd be much more difficult. Lesson learned I hope!
ReplyDeleteHey Rebecca, yes pick-pocketing is rampant around here. Most of my friends have experienced the joy of realizing their wallets are gone. With unemployment of 20% (40% in some demographics) it's probably not surprising to see so much petty theft here.
ReplyDeleteAlex,thanks for the comment. Glad to have things settled:)